The pavilion, Flowers, Willows and Crosses

 

The lofty pavilion is standing in the backdrop of the perfect autumn sky. The structure is called Banghwasuryujeong, meaning seeking flowers and willows along the stream. This building is a part of Suwon Hwaseong, which is a castle built to make a new town in the current location of Suwon by the 22nd monarch of Joseon, Lee San. However, there is more than such practical reason to build this castle and fancy pavilion overlooking dragon pond. The castle was also meant to be a part of mausoleum dedicated to his father, a crowned prince Sado or Lee sun. Lee sun was confined in a rice chest and left there for nine days, eventually starved to death. For me Banghwasuryujeong seems to be a giant rice chest.

The cross patterns, a symbol of Christianity, on the western wall of the pavillion facing Hwahongmun Gate, have been enduring mystery for long time. At first glance, it seems to have been carved to avoid monotony, but if you look closely, it seems to be an intentionally done for some purpose. It has been argued that the cross patterns on the walls and ceiling are a way to secretly promote Catholicism, which was banned at the time.

According to a theory, Jeong Yak-yong, the main character of Hwaseong Design, was a Catholic and responsible for cross symbols. He is the best scholar of the time, who was highly trusted as a close aide to King Jeongjo (Lee San). However, Jeong was so busy for different things during the construction, he was not directly involved in detailed design and building processes. Then we may ask a question, why the hell there are so many crosses on the wall of the pavilion. Some people go as far as to say that Lee San was a member of the Rosicrucian and want to encode hidden messages that could be decoded by followers of teaching later. Well…Who knows for sure? But one thing I am sure of is that visitors seem to enjoy beautiful scene and each of us may try to interpret overall meanings embedded there.

Dundeok, which was artificially built mound to support the pavilion, is the end of a mountain stream flowing down from the east. On a rock that resembles the shape of a dragon head spitting water flowing to the Suwoncheon.

This scene seems too exotic to be called a military facility like castle, but more like a part of royal court. Under the pavilion, a small pond was also made. It is called Yongyeon (dragon pond) because it is a pond where dragons live. There are many willows planted around Yongyeon. When we visited this pond in early October this year, many gathered around this water lily filled pond to take photos. Recently, this area became a quote unquote hot place of Suwon.

After construction, Lee San stopped by here to relax while traveling to Hwaseong, dreaming of a huge city where Joseon's culture and Western culture breathe in harmony.

From the pavilion, Yeonmudae and Northeast Gongsimdon can be seen in the east. It is said, before the Korean War, the area was full of old pine trees, creating a spectacular sight.

Hwahongmun Gate under Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion is the northern floodgate of Suwoncheon Stream that penetrates Hwaseong Fortress. Four stone steps were made in front of the floodgate to gently drop the rushing water.

Suwoncheon is no longer strong and seems to trickle down because of Gwangkyo reservoir located upstream blocks water. It is said that when the water poured out, it was crowded with spectators in front of Hwahongmun Gate. We were not able to see such spectacular scene but saw big carps swimming and an ibis like bird searching for its prey. In the end of the schedule, we did not forget about having ribs, dried side dishes with a glass of draft beer.

As I mentioned earlier, Hwaseong is not a castle built solely for military purposes, but there are traces of great effort in landscape and aesthetics. When you visit walls of this fortress, you may feel the affection of Lee San toward his beloved but tragically died dad.