The DGS Season has come

 

Despite the worries on release of radioactive water of Fukushima, the season of dotted gizzard shad (Hereafter just DGS) has come, and everybody seems to enjoy. I had this fish several times with friends and family members too.



DGS was famous for its autumn delicacies but was cheap and considered side menu rather than main dish in the seafood restaurants. In the past, due to the lack of the development of transportation technology and infrastructures, these perishable fish were mainly consumed in ports and coastal areas, and the amount that could be transported inland was limited. Therefore, it was not uncommon to sell this delicious fish at a lower price. In addition to DGS, monkfish (Angler fish if you like to call) have also been rediscovered as delicious fish in modern times, but they have been treated like garbage or something in the past.

 

The reason why autumn DGS is delicious is because of its rich fat. From September to November, it boasts three times as much fat as other fish. On the contrary, when it is not in season, the taste is not that good. But there are exceptions. In Japanese food, young DGSs are used as pickles, and less oily fries are said to be better than oily adult fish.

Although I did not try yet, it is said that grilled autumn DGS is most delicious when you chew it from the head and eat it whole. Some people said that it is so savory as if sesame seeds were embedded in this fish’s head. However, I think chewing a whole fish is not recommendable or practical because DGSs are famous for having lots of fine bones and thorns.

All three different forms of DGS dishes, sashimi, grilled fish, and salad is popular. If you spread it out and fry it around the backbone, the weak spines become weaker and easier to eat. Of course, my favorite DGS dish is sashimi, and I went to both Korean style seafood restaurant and izakaya. I visited one of the famous izakaya in the city and the chef of the place skillfully removed most of fine bones of the fish ( I don’t know how this task was possible though) so when I chewed piece of low fish, I felt like eating regular low fish, not secoshi. If you are having this fish in the more Korean style places, you can feel the texture of bones because most of chefs there may not get rid of small bones. Probably, it is a unique touch making you think cat’s tongue scratches inside your mouth. I think DGS goes well with soju, sake and even with most of highballs.


 



The Namhae region accounts for more than 40% of the nation's catch of DGS. In the long run, it is fortunate that there is little risk of extinction even if this fish is caught every year thanks to the establishment of military protection zones especially near Jinhae and its vicinity, and the catch of DGS caught in the West Sea and East Sea is also increasing rapidly due to rising water temperature.

I would like to have DGS dishes again before this autumn is spent.


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