Too early to have this fish!
This time, we went to fusion sea food
restaurant Hoepocha to enjoy fresh raw fish dishes before weather gets too hot
to have them. It is March and the best season to have Hoe or Korean style raw
fish cuisines will be over soon. The
fish, however, we had this time was Japanese seabass (Nongeo in Korean) and it
is known that one of the exceptionally best summer raw foods. In Korea, the bestseller fish in the seafood
markets are olive flounder, rock fish, sea bream, sea bass, and salmon. Among these, seabass is more delicious during
summer days because this fish spawn in fall and consequently, they begin to
prepare for reproduction in summer and same is true for croaker (Mineo).
In fish markets, both wild caught, and farm
raised seabass are available. There are few species that show different
characteristics when they are served as raw fish dishes and seabass is one of
them. The muscle of wild caught seabass is bright and back is light gold, but
farm raised bass has darker color. These days, almost 80~90% of this fish in
markets are farm raised and 50% of them in Korea may be imported from China. It
is well known fact that China is the number 1 producer of seabass. Experts
argue that the bigger the seabass, better the taste. Personally, so far, I tried few times and I
do not have chance to prove these claims as I did not check how big they were
before processes for serving. The one we had in this restaurant (photo below)
show bright colored muscles and I inclined to believe that it was wild caught
although I did not ask chefs.
This seabass (Japanese seabass) is
different from North American seabass or grouper and live in the seas near
Taiwan, China, Japan and Korea. Younger seabass like freshwater, so they can go
back to coastal areas or the estuary of the river when they mature. In Sumjingang,
the river in the southwest part of Korea, people often witness fry and adult in
the middle and lower stream due to the seawater encroachment. The full-grown
adult fish can reach 132 centimeters in length.
Some Koreans dislike this fish because the
texture is too soft, but for this reason kids love to eat including Leo. I
personally like seabass for the same reason. Here, in Korea, many seafood manias
love chewy, crunchy and crispy texture than softness when they bite a slice of
fish. If you are such type of epicure, then this fish is not for you.
In Japan, seabasses are aged and eaten as
fresh fish sashimi. According to chefs, if you take advantage of rigor mortis
of fish by allowing few hours in the freezer then it is possible to achieve
chewy and crunchy texture to enjoy. The cutting procedures with sharp knifes
are also important to guarantee roughness of surface of sliced fish and unique
texture. Usually, seabass dishes come with baby clam & cockle soup, seaweed
or sea lettuce salad, fried herring, fried cons and squid-cabbage salad in
sweet and spicy sources. After finishing main dish, we were served spicy fish
soup made with leftover fish flesh, organs, bones, and crown daisy (edible
chrysanthemum or ssukgot). For foreigners, this type of soup may be too spicy,
but you can always ask chefs not to put sources too much and you could have
adjusted taste. This is exactly what I did because Leo is 9 years old and
dislike anything too spicy.
Although having this fish is unseasonal, we
loved its prominent softness and will come to this place again in summer for
better taste.
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